A typical hoop-skirt and tightly fitted bodice
The fashions of the early 1860s provided the backdrop for history's famous "Southern Belles." Wide skits, demure necklines and elaborate hairstyles are all hallmarks of this style. Despite a relatively consistent silhouette, fabrics and decorative details varied hugely depending on the financial situation of the belle in question. Costumers interested in this era are urged to keep that fact in mind when creating looks.
Skirts
Skirts during the 1960s were worn in a wide, circular shape resembling a bell. Skirts were given shape by wide hoop under-skirts, which were slightly weighted in the back to ease walking. The hoop skirt was in turn covered with layers of starched petticoats. The outermost skirt was then "hemmed" by sewing a wide band of fabric onto the bottom of the skirt.
Waists and Bodices
Large skirts gave the illusion of small waists, thus removing the need for overly-restrictive corsets. Women in this era therefore largely kept to natural waist shape and sizes. Bodices were generally made separately from skirts and attached at the waist. They buttoned up the front with either hooks and eyes or buttons. In contrast to the wide skirts, bodices were closely fitted to the body.
Fabrics
Dressmakers in the 1860s pulled from a variety of fabrics. Fine dresses might use silk or linen, while utilitarian dresses used cotton or "jean cloth." As the Civil War progressed, homespun fabric became more common. Fabric also came in a wide range of colors, including bright blues, greens and reds. White, plaid and purple were also popular.
Hairstyles
Hair during the Southern Belle era varied depending upon occasion. Day-to-day hair usually consisted of a simple bun or chignon, with the hair parted down the muddle. Loops or ringlets could then be dressed to cover the ears. Formal hairstyles also included low buns and chignons, but added fanciful decorations. According to the Victoria and Albert Museum, "Ornaments for evening wear included floral wreaths, ostrich feathers, pomegranate flowers, wheatears and butterflies."
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