Once you know the basics, you can build fancier hand planes.
Before the age of power tools, hand planes were used almost exclusively for shaping wood. Jointing, smoothing, rabbeting, and even routing operations were done by hand with these planes. When a professional woodworker needed a special plane, he usually made it himself. The late John Gardner, dean of American small boat builders, dedicated an entire chapter of his book, "Building Classic Small Craft" to plane design and construction. Making a wooden plane can give you a sense of accomplishment, as well as a great looking tool for your chest.
Instructions
1. Adjust your jointer to remove no more than 1/16-inch of material per pass. Turn the jointer on. Pass the bottom of your hardwood block over the jointer until you have a smooth, flat surface for the bottom of the plane.
2. Adjust the fence on the jointer to a 90-degree angle. Place the flattened bottom of the plane against the jointer fence and trim one side square with the bottom. When this is done, flip the block of wood over, again place the bottom of he plane against the fence and square remaining side with the bottom.
3. Adjust the fence on your band saw to make a 3/8-inch cut. Place the square plane blank bottom down on the band saw table and cut a 3/8-inch slab off of each of the two flattened sides of the blank. These slices will be used as the cheeks or sides of the plane.
4. Place the center portion of your blank on a flat work surface. With your angle gauge, mark a line beginning at the center of the blank’s bottom, running at a 45-degree angle to the top rear of the blank.
5. Adjust the angle gauge to 60-degrees. Turn it over and mark this angle from the bottom of your previous mark, running to the top edge of the blank toward the front. This lop-sided "V" will form the throat of your plane. The 45-degree side of the "V" forms the bed for your plane iron. The 60-degree angle widens the throat to allow the shavings to travel smoothly out of the throat.
6. Adjust the miter gauge on your table saw to the appropriate angles to cut along these marks and remove the throat from the blank. When you are finished, you will have two pieces of wood that will form the inner body of the plane. Check your cuts carefully with a square. The 45-degree cut must be flat and square to both sides of the body in order for the plane iron to seat correctly. Save the cut out center portion of the body. This will be trimmed and used as a wedge to secure the plane iron.
7. Place one cheek plate on a flat work surface. Test fit the front and rear portions of the plane body on top of the cheek plate. You will need at least a 1/8-inch gap between the front and rear points on the lower throat to allow for blade movement and the passage of shavings. If you need to remove material, trim the edge of the front block only.
8. Line up and glue the cheeks to the body. Use either epoxy or carpenter's glue. Spread the glue evenly on both cheek plates. Align all edges and clamp securely. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours.
9. Remove the clamps from the plane body. Place the plane on its side with the large opening facing away from you. Mark a spot one-inch above the bottom of the sole plate and 1 1/16 inches in front of the plane iron bed (the 45-degree side).
10. Clamp the plane body in position on the table of your drill press. Drill a 3/8-inch hole through both cheek plates.
11. Insert a 3/8-inch brass rod through the hole in both cheek plates. Use a hacksaw to trim the rod 1/16 inch longer than the distance between the outer edges of the plates.
12. Place the plane body on an anvil or hard steel surface. One end of the pin should rest on the anvil with the other end facing up. Tap the upper end of the pin with a hammer several times to flatten the ends. Flattening the ends of the pin will keep it from falling out while you adjust the plane. Do not hit the sides of the plane with the hammer.
13. Cut the piece of scrap you made while cutting the throat of the plane. Use your band saw to cut a wedge that tapers from one-inch at the base to no more than 1/16-inch at the tip.
14. Insert your plane iron flat against the 45-degree bed inside the body of the plane. Insert the thin end of the wedge between the brass pin and the top of the plane iron to hold it in position.
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